Food

Wine

Varietals
Varietal is one word you'll see applied to most non-European wines; it simply refers to the grape variety used to make the wine. In Europe, the finest wines are usually named after the region (the other is appellation) in which the grapes are grown; examples include Bordeaux, Chianti, Piesporter, Champagne, etc. In most of the rest of the world (including Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, South America and the United States) the finest wines are usually labeled with the name of the grape variety that the wine is made from (i.e.: Cabernet, Chardonnay, etc.). The Europeans have had hundreds of years to determine which grapes grow best in which regions, and they often have regulations controlling their labeling. For example, Pinot Noir is the only red grape allowed to be grown in most of the Burgundy region. As non-European countries establish reputations for the wines of certain regions, they often add the region's name to the varietal name; for example, Napa Valley Cabernet, Russian River Pinot Noir.

Serious wine-producing countries and states regulate the amount of a particular grape that must be present before the wine can flaunt that grape's name. In California and Washington any wine referred to by the name of the grape (Chardonnay, for example) must be at least 75% of that grape; most varietals in Oregon must be 90% of the named grape; and Alsace requires 100%.

The types of grapes used to make a wine are probably the single most important factor in the taste of the wine. However, the flavors of a wine are also affected by how old the vines are, what types of soils the vines are grown in, exposure to sunlight, climates and microclimates, how the grapes are handled and fermented, types of yeast used, whether the wine is aged in wood, etc. Therefore, the same grape types can be grown in France, Australia, California and Chile, but various factors result in wines which taste different! Half the fun of experiencing wine is the incredible array of flavors available!

Many of the world's finest wines are a blend of varietals: almost all Bordeaux red wines contain Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc; almost all Champagnes contain Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. A wine which is a blend of Cabernet and Merlot, for example, is often more complex than a wine which is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Exploring varietal characteristics makes for a richer wine experience. To that end, we have collected descriptions of the varietals you are most likely to encounter.


Appellations
The term appellation is French and refers to a viticultural region distinguished by geographical features which produce wines with shared characteristics. The idea is that the soil, climate, sun, water quality, and contour of a region combine to produce a style of wine that simply can't be duplicated elsewhere. The size of an appellation can range from very small plots of land to huge areas that cover hundreds of miles.

American wines emphasize varietal over place but European winemakers take the opposite approach. In 1935 France founded the Institute National Des Appellations d'Origine, becoming the first nation to set up a countrywide system based on geography for controlling the origin and quality of its wines. Their Appellation d'Origine Controlee (AOC) plan originated as a preventative measure during the Depression to protect French winemakers and consumers from fraudulent and inferior wine blending practices of some unethical French wine brokers. Since that time other countries have adopted similar regulatory controls.

In the U.S. appellations are known as American Viticultural Areas or AVAs. However, the American Viticultural Area carries a different connotation than the French appellation of origin. Labels, for instance, may identify a wine's AVA when a minimum of 85% of the grapes used comes from within that specified AVA, while French AOC regulations have stricter guidelines which include vineyard location, varietal, growing technique, crop yield, grape ripeness and ensuing alcohol content, and winemaking practices.

As a rule, the French rely more on terrain and the manifestation of nature upon grapes than do Americans. It's the basis upon which the entire French wine classification is built, after all. However, American wine enthusiasts also recognize how powerful a tool regional flavors and style characteristics are for wine identification and classification. To illustrate, a wine that's labeled simply California Chardonnay could emanate from anywhere in California rather than in the Sonoma-Napa County wine region.

In essence, wine-tasting is the study of how soil, climate, and weather affect different varieties of grapes, and how those factors are manifested in wine. So, the next time you enjoy a robust Zinfandel, pay attention to where it comes from, and later select another label from that same appellation. You should notice some subtle characteristics the two wines have in common. With your new-found knowledge, you'll be able try wines from the same appellation with some degree of assurance that they will suit your taste, even if the brand is unfamiliar.


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